Van Cleef & Arpels After The Lifeng Era, The Chinese Market Expands At A Constant Speed

Richemont Group considers two French-originated brands: Cartier [Weibo] and Van Cleef & Arpels, and its jewelry sales are always ranked in the top two of Richemont Group.

In 1906, the love marriage between the Van Cleef & Arpels family bear fruit at 22 Fontaine Place in Paris, Catherine Rénier, President of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Asia Pacific region, emphasized: ‘Our design inspiration, manufacturing process and extraordinary gems make this The brand born for love has always stood up in the field of jewellery. ‘Since 107 years, since the opening of the first boutique, this brand known as’ love ‘has always adhered to the business model of direct sales. At present, the distribution business only exists in the brand’s watch business and occupies a very small share.

The average annual expansion of two stores in the Chinese market

After Paris and New York, Van Cleef & Arpels finally entered the Asia Pacific region, and the first choice was the port city: Hong Kong. On September 16, 2001, Van Cleef & Arpels finally opened its third flagship store in Prince’s Building, Central, Hong Kong.

The success of Hong Kong allowed Van Cleef & Arpels to step back into the Chinese market in 2005. For 7 years, Van Cleef & Arpels expanded its retail network in Mainland China at an average rate of two new stores each year. Family. Obviously, it is not expanding fast.

AtherCatherine Rénier told the Financial Weekly reporter: ‘We will not develop so quickly and make quick progress, and we will be a hundred boutiques around the world, so the 13 mainland Chinese companies still occupy a large proportion globally.’

梵 In the past two years, Van Cleef & Arpels has continued to expand retail channels in key second-tier cities. Two months ago, Nanjing boutiques arrived as scheduled, and it is reported that the Chengdu store is also about to open. At the same time, Van Cleef & Arpels is also renovating some stores. Not long ago, the Hang Lung Store in Shanghai reopened, and the refurbished boutique gave consumers a whole new look.

Catherine Rénier said, ‘We hope that every step is steady. For the dealer business that already has a small proportion, we only work with dealers who have long-term cooperative relationships and loyalty, and insist on operating only watches. . ‘

Of course, Van Cleef & Arpels’ advertising in the Chinese market is also steadily increasing. In addition, the brand will put more energy into marketing activities. A year ago, Van Cleef & Arpels made its first retrospective exhibition in the Asia-Pacific region, and chose the Shanghai Museum of Contemporary Art. This is also the largest exhibition the brand has ever presented to a Chinese audience, displaying classic jewellery, watches, accessories and related historical drawings and documents that have emerged from the brand’s more than 100 years of development.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ jewelry development in China has been faster than watches, but in the past two years, Van Cleef & Arpels watches have emerged as a new force, more and more women consumers are familiar with. In particular, the famous poetic complication movement, the most representative of which is the Lover’s Bridge watch, Catherine Rénier revealed: ‘This watch has been superior to all Van Cleef & Arpels watches since its launch in China. ‘

Van Cleef & Arpels continues its efforts on watches. Catherine said: ‘Jewelry is one of our cores for Van Cleef & Arpels, so jewelry still maintains a core position in Van Cleef & Arpels’ development. Maybe we Jewellery is higher than the sales of watches, but watches are also an area where we are developing rapidly, and we will continue to pursue better development in the field of women’s watches. ‘

History

‘For us, from any development, there are two very major risks. One is to simply repeat the past production, and the other is to create a completely new creation. The risk may be mainly that if you If you create new works in order to adapt to this era, you may lose the brand’s traditional personality and philosophy and DNA. ‘In the face of the heritage of the brand’s DNA, Nicolas Bos, global president and CEO, said so.

当天 On the day of the interview, Nicolas Bos wore a Pierre Apel watch. This watch was originally designed by Mr. Pierre Apel for 1949. At that time, the watch was called PA49. Mr. Bos wears the Pierre Apel watch, whose design is derived from PA49.

In order to adapt to the current era, the designer has changed the design of the straps and dials by injecting modern styles, but still retains the simple design of the original round dial of the PA49. Its elegant connotation and simple style complement each other, as always. . And this is also one of the most important components of Van Cleef & Arpels watches. Nicolas Bos explained: ‘We launched the Pierre Apel watches because we are seeing more and more consumers want to return to the pursuit of simplicity, elegance and slimness.’

If you look at Van Cleef & Arpels’s work, you will find that each of its productions will not completely subvert the traditional creation. They are inspired by classic works from the past century and extensions related to historical elements.

For jewellery, Van Cleef & Arpels also insists on inheritance, especially the inlaid jewellery and zipper necklaces. The representative jewelry of the brand is more quickly recognized by the Chinese market, and these two are unique techniques launched in the 1930s . There is also a four-leaf clover lucky series that has been on the market since the 1960s. Nicolas Bos said that he will continue to enrich this series.

Dialogue

Interview with Nicolas Bos, Global President and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels

High-end jewels stand out, Van Cleef & Arpels refers to Harry Winston, Graff

M = Moneyweek N = Nicolas Bos

M: In the eyes of most people, Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston and Graff are competitors. Do you agree? What kind of core competitiveness does Van Cleef & Arpels have?

N: I agree with that. At the consumer level, they need works from different brands. For Van Cleef & Arpels, our main advantage is the combination of design and superb craftsmanship. In design, we have a very specific and traceable source of these inspirations, such as nature, fairy, butterfly, ballet and so on. It is precisely because of such poetic creative inspiration and design elements that there are works that are sold like poetic complication watches.

M: What happened to Van Cleef & Arpels after joining Richemont? What are the advantages?

N: Joining Richemont Group is a long-term support for Van Cleef & Arpels, which is reflected in the support of investment and resource sharing. With the support of the group, we can buy better and more personalized gems, have the ability to find the best jewelry craftsmen, and have more funds to develop our workshops. The Richemont Group is also very clear about the development of Van Cleef & Arpels. The group does not require Van Cleef & Arpels to expand areas that we do not have. It only hopes that Van Cleef & Arpels will have better development in areas it has always focused on. Jewellery table.

M: Harry Winston has been acquired by the Swatch Group, which means that the brand also has the group’s support. Does Van Cleef & Arpels have a sense of crisis? What does this acquisition mean in the field of fine jewelry?

N: Van Cleef & Arpels is not worried about this acquisition. I think that the acquisition of Harry Winston by the Swatch Group will help the development of the entire jewelry market. He will have a better development in the market. In fact, there are Contribute to the growth of the entire jewelry market. So for Van Cleef & Arpels, he is our competitor, but the jewelry market’s share in the entire luxury market is very small, only about 10%, so the impact is not great.